Clothes protect us from heat, cold and rain and also add to our appearance. But have you ever wondered how a piece of cloth is made? Clothes are made from fabric, which is woven from yarn, and yarn is spun from thin strands called fibres. Fibres are the basic building blocks of all fabrics. In this chapter we study the sources of these fibres and the steps by which they are converted into fabric.
Fibres may come from plants, animals or be made in factories. Natural fibres obtained from plants and animals have been used for thousands of years, while synthetic fibres made from chemicals are a recent development. Depending on the source, the processing steps differ. Some fibres are spun into yarn easily and give soft, comfortable cloth, while others need special treatment. Understanding fibres helps us choose the right clothing for different seasons and purposes.
Fibres are classified into two broad groups based on their origin. Natural fibres are obtained from plants and animals. Plant fibres, such as cotton and jute, are derived from plant parts, while animal fibres, such as wool and silk, are obtained from the body covering of animals. Synthetic fibres, on the other hand, are manufactured from chemicals and are not obtained from plants or animals.
Synthetic fibres are made from a substance called polymer, which is formed by combining many small units called monomers. Common synthetic fibres include nylon, polyester, rayon and acrylic. Nylon was the first fully synthetic fibre made without any natural raw material. Synthetic fibres are strong, elastic, lightweight and dry quickly, so they are used for making socks, ropes, umbrellas and swimwear. Rayon is a semi-synthetic fibre made from wood pulp (cellulose) and is called artificial silk because it looks like silk. Polyester is made from petroleum products and does not wrinkle easily, while acrylic is a wool-like synthetic fibre often used to make sweaters.
The raw fibre obtained from plants and animals is not directly suitable for making cloth. It must first be converted into yarn through a process called spinning. In spinning, fibres from a mass of cotton or wool are drawn out and twisted together to form a strong, continuous thread called yarn. In earlier times this was done by hand using a spinning wheel called charkha, and today machines called spinning machines do the same job much faster.
Once yarn is ready, it is converted into fabric by two main methods: weaving and knitting. Weaving is the process of arranging two sets of yarns together to make a fabric. One set runs along the length of the fabric (called the warp) and the other runs across (called the weft). These are interlaced at right angles on a loom, which may be hand-operated or power-driven. Sarees, dhotis and many dress materials are woven fabrics. Knitting, on the other hand, uses a single yarn which is turned into a series of loops, one after another, using knitting needles or machines. Sweaters and socks are usually knitted. The famous 'Khadi' cloth in India is hand-spun and hand-woven.
Wool is an animal fibre obtained from the fleece (hair) of sheep, goats (like the Cashmere goat), camels and rabbits (Angora rabbits). The wool obtained from different animals differs in quality, fineness and length. Wool is warm because the air trapped between the wool fibres prevents body heat from escaping, making it ideal for winter clothing. The process of obtaining wool involves several steps.
First, the fleece of the sheep is removed, which is called shearing. Shearing does not hurt the sheep because the hair is cut close to the skin, just like a haircut. Next, the sheared hair is thoroughly washed to remove grease, dust and dirt; this step is called scouring. After scouring, the cleaned wool is dried and the fibres are sorted into different qualities in a process called sorting. The short fibres, called burrs, are removed, and finally the wool is coloured with dyes and spun into yarn, from which woollen clothes are woven or knitted. In India, sheep are reared in regions like Jammu and Kashmir, Himachal Pradesh, Uttarakhand and Rajasthan, and the wool from these regions is famous for quality.
Silk is a fine, smooth and lustrous animal fibre, often called the queen of fibres. It is obtained from the cocoon of the silkworm, which is the larva of the silk moth. Silk production is called sericulture. The life cycle of the silk moth has four stages: egg, larva (caterpillar), pupa and adult. The female silk moth lays eggs; the eggs hatch into larvae called caterpillars which feed on mulberry leaves and grow very fast. When fully grown, the caterpillar spins a covering around itself called the cocoon, using silk threads secreted from its salivary glands. Inside the cocoon it turns into a pupa, and finally an adult silk moth comes out.
To obtain silk, the cocoons are collected and boiled in hot water. Boiling kills the pupa inside so that the cocoon does not burst, and it also loosens the silk threads so that they can be unwound easily. The long silk fibres are then reeled and spun into silk yarn, which is woven into silk cloth. The most common silk in India is mulberry silk, and the main silk-producing states are Karnataka, West Bengal, Tamil Nadu and Jammu and Kashmir. Silk is very strong, light and comfortable, making it suitable for clothing.
| Fibre | Source | Type | Uses |
|---|---|---|---|
| Cotton | Cotton plant (boll) | Natural plant fibre | Clothing, bedsheets |
| Jute | Jute plant (stem) | Natural plant fibre | Sacks, ropes, gunny bags |
| Wool | Sheep, goat, camel | Natural animal fibre | Sweaters, blankets |
| Silk | Silkworm cocoon | Natural animal fibre | Sarees, ties, scarves |
| Nylon | Chemicals (polymer) | Synthetic fibre | Socks, ropes, parachutes |
| Polyester | Petroleum products | Synthetic fibre | Shirts, dresses |
| Acrylic | Chemicals | Synthetic (wool-like) | Sweaters, blankets |
| Process | Meaning |
|---|---|
| Shearing | Cutting the fleece (hair) of sheep |
| Scouring | Washing sheared hair to remove grease and dust |
| Sorting | Separating wool fibres by quality |
| Spinning | Twisting fibres to form yarn |
| Weaving | Interlacing two sets of yarns at right angles |
| Knitting | Forming loops of a single yarn |
Clothing begins with fibres, which may come from plants, animals or be made from chemicals. Natural fibres like cotton, jute, wool and silk, and synthetic fibres like nylon, polyester, rayon and acrylic, each have their own properties and uses. Fibres are converted into yarn by spinning and then into fabric by weaving or knitting. The processes of obtaining wool and silk show how human beings have learned to use animal products skilfully without cruelty, as shearing is painless and sericulture is managed carefully. This knowledge helps us appreciate the clothes we wear and make wise choices about them.